Journal, October 14, 2026, 6 min read
Italian lingerie and lace, what makes it different
Italian lingerie is defined by fine lace with finished scalloped edges, mulberry silk cut on the bias, precise tailoring and a restrained palette. Leavers-style lace and Chantilly-style lace are the two lace families that matter most.
When people say Italian lingerie they usually mean a feeling: lace that looks expensive at a glance, silk that moves, colours that are deep rather than loud. Behind that feeling are a few concrete choices you can learn to spot.
Leavers-style lace
Leavers lace is named after the machines invented in Nottingham and perfected in Calais, where twisted threads are worked on narrow looms to imitate handmade lace. It is dense, with a clear pattern and a finished scalloped edge. It holds its shape after many washes, which is why it is used on bras that have to support. Our Notte di Venezia set uses a Leavers-style scalloped lace.
Chantilly-style lace
Chantilly lace is finer and lighter, with a fine net background and motifs outlined in a slightly heavier thread. It is softer and more delicate, the classic bridal lace. The ivory Sposa set uses a Chantilly-style lace.
Silk from the Como tradition
Lake Como has been a centre of silk weaving and printing for centuries. Italian silk lingerie is usually mulberry silk, the smoothest and strongest kind, woven at 16 to 22 momme for nightwear and robes. Cut on the bias, it drapes along the body without elastic, as in our silk chemises.
A restrained palette
Italian lingerie tends to avoid busy prints. Black, ivory, a deep red, a powdery pink, sometimes a deep green or midnight blue. We name our colours in Italian for that reason: Nero, Avorio, Rosso, Cipria, Smeraldo, Blu Notte, Champagne.
How to recognise quality in a shop
| Check | Good sign |
|---|---|
| Lace edge | Finished scallop, no raw cut edge with elastic sewn on top |
| Silk | Listed as mulberry silk with a momme weight |
| Hardware | Metal sliders and clips |
| Seams | French seams in silk, no exposed overlocking |
| Sizing | Bra and brief sized separately in a set |
More on this in high end lingerie, or start with the full Italian lingerie edit.
Questions
Is Leavers lace better than other lace?
For lingerie that has to support, yes. It is denser and more durable than raschel lace, and keeps its edge.
Is all Italian lingerie made in Italy?
Not necessarily. Many houses design in Italy and produce elsewhere. Check the label and the composition.
